Heres a mixture of images of experimentation for Miss Havisham both hair and makeup.
This is my final hairstyle that I created. My aim was always to create Miss Havisham as a younger woman on her wedding day, or a few days after and so i needed her hair to be fairly neat and put together, and at the same time stick to Victorian influences to ensure i kept to the period look the brief outlined that we must create.
Hers the first makeup look i played around with based upon ageing using contouring. Although i like how this came out i decided it wasn't the sort of direction i wanted to take with my Miss Havisham look.
Further exploration of my final hair design adding more backcomb and height, and deciding whether or not i wanted to use a hair rat. I decided i didn't want to and so i had to create volume and height with backcombing and layering of the sections of hair.
This is experimentation of red eyes as i wanted to create my Miss havisham on her wedding day having just been stood up and so i wanted to create really red and crying eyes with neat hair.
This is another hair design i practised for my Miss Havisham, i wanted to create barrel curls on the head leading to the back of the head however i really disliked this hairstyle its far to flat and looks slightly more milk maid esque than i would have liked. Although i really don't like it i thought i should document it as this is what helped lead to my final hair design.
The aim of this lesson was to create a victorian hair style and then begin to decay it, whilst keeping in mind the idea of the type of silhouette we were creating. As you can see from the top image i began to back comb and pull some sections looser, however this is as far as i got, i would have liked to have added some dead flowers/petals and possibly some lace over the face, although this is what i will do for my silhouette shoot. I really like the shape i managed to create, i managed to achieve the volume by back combing and layering the hair, rather than adding a hair rat. Firstly i created the french pleat at the back of the head after sectioning the hair from the back of the ears. When creating the french pleat i concentrated on ensuring the shape from the neck into the hair flowed neatly. From here i sectioned hair along the hair line from the temples round to the ears. I then split this section into 2 sections and rolled it using the same idea of a barrel curl and pinned these 2 sections on the hair line. Using a bun grip i then merged the 2 sections into one, and repeated this on the other side of the head. Using the sections of hair between the 2 temples i separated these into a middle parting and added to curls on either side of the parting. With the middle section of hair i split this into 3 sections, in the shape of a triangle. I then backcombed these sections one at a time and pinned them in a bouffant shape. After pinning down one section i then interviewed another section through or around each pinned section and pinned that. Finally i got the 1st 2 curls on either side of the parting and brought this back onto the lifted shape onto the head and pinned them. I really like the shape i managed to create and Im going to take this idea forward to help me form my final hair design.
During this lesson we continued to play around with our ideas for 'Miss Havisham'. My partner Chantelle worked on me and began to play around with some of the ideas she had and this was the outcome:
I then went home and began to experiment with my ideas of 'Miss Havisham'. I firstly went for the idea of an aged and haggard Havisham.
Products used:
Kryolan foundation palette
Natural collection brown eye shadow in 'walnut'
Revlon lipstick in 'black cherry'
To create this look i firstly applied a foundation base to the face and neck area. and blended this well into the skin From here i got the shadow and a pointed brush and began to apply the powder shadow into the natural creases in the face such as the frown lines, crows feet, laughter lines etc. Aswell as this i also took the shadow down the neck and onto the collar bones to contour them and make them appear as though they are jutting out of the skin due to malnutrition. I then added the lipstick with my ring finger beneath the eyes and onto the lid patting it into the skin and using the socket bone as my guide.
When creating a french pleat firstly started with one side of the head and comb it tightly round to the centre at the back of the head. When it was all smoothed enough, I used 6 grips and started at the base of the knock and gripped the sleeked back side of the hair in place in a line of 3 X shapes. From here i went on to start to comb the other side of the hair towards the back of the head. From here I put 2 fingers against the hair grips and began to wrap the hair around my fingers, until it was all pulled neatly enough to begin pinning. I then used the bun grips and began to pin them down the side of the french pleat to secure it. Then with the piece of hair left at the top I curled it around and pinned it to the top of the french pleat to create a neat curl. From here i sprayed some hairspray onto my fingertips and smoothed the whole thing over
To create the bruise around the eye i firstly used the Kryolan bruise palette and a small pointed brush. I used the navy, purple and burgundy colours from within the bruise wheel. I then went on to slowly add the colours one at a time amongst each other using a dabbing motion with my brush and then using my ring finger i patted over the top to blend more. I started in the inner corner of the eye and worked my way outwards underneath and then bang from the inner corner outwards on the lid, ensuring i didn't go an higher than the brow and no lower than the eye socket bone, i repeated this until i had achieved something that i believed picture well and realistically. As the final step i added vaseline under the eye onto of the bruise i created to help create the illusion of slight swelling.
Cuts:
Firstly i got some plasto wax and warmed it up on the back of my hand using my palette knife until it reach a butter consistency. I then placed it onto the skin in my chosen position, ensuring i blended out the edges. I then sliced down the centre and lifted some parts in the centre to make it look like flapping skin. Once i was happy with with the shape of the cut i had created, using the sealer i covered the entire area that has plasto wax on, including all edges and inside the cut.
Once the sealer was dry i added the wound filler and coffee grounds into the centre of the cut. This made it really dark in the centre and adds depth. Using what was left on my brush I lightly brushed this on to the skin around the cut to create redness.
Once this was done i used the fake blood and put it into the cut to ensure it glistened, i then let it run down the face naturally in the direction it wanted to ensure it looked as real as possible.
Kryolan foundation palette in lightest shade and medium shade
Illamasqua matter primer
Old age stipple
Eyebrow brush
Small angled brush
Small pointed precision brush
Foundation brush
Buffing brush
Makeup sponge
Hair dryer
Illamasqua fixing powder
For this i firstly added a pale base and buffed it into the skin. From here i got the darker shade from the foundation palette and began to draw lines on the natural creases and folds of the face, such as crows feet, laughter lines and frown lines. I also added the darker colour to either side of the nose to make it appear slimmer, and also beneath the cheek bones and brought this line down to reflect the idea of gravity. I then blended all these in and continued the process until i felt they were dark enough. I then added old age stipple with the makeup sponge to area around the eye to create ageing/ crepeing of the skin. I achieved this by pulling the skin tight between my thumb and index finger, i then added on the stipple, ensuring i added a few layers. I then used to hair dryer on the lowest head at a good distance away and began to use this to completely dry the stipple (when it goes clear). From here i then stop pulling the skin tight and begin to pinch it together and the stipple creates a wrinkled effect as you can see on the bottom picture, after this i then powdered the face and stipple to make the whole thing seem more realistic and apart of the skin.
Collection 2000 lasting perfection concealer in 1 fair
Illamasqua matte primer
Illamasqua setting powder
Clinique everyday moisturiser
During this lesson we played around with bases to decide on what sort of colour/ texture we wanted to achieve for our version of a period 'Miss Havisham'. I wanted to look at a younger Havisham and so i stuck to an natural ivory base, the sort of colour you would expect from a young woman in her prime. After applying the base i then went on to add powder to the left side of the face and moisturiser to the high points of the face (such as the on the cheek bones, around the eyes/temples) on the right. Although the right hand side looks less flawless this will be far harder to recreate and ensure continuity, so therefore i will use the same base application you can see on the left hand side and add in any blemishes etc that i wish to have, this way i can be sure of the continuity.
The aim of this task was to take one hairstyle, which was a french pleat and manipulate it based on the keywords romantic, cruel and decaying, words that were taken from Dickens 'Great expectations' based on the 3 main characters- Miss Havisham, Estella and Pip.
The inspiration for these manipulations came from my earlier post:
I like the idea of a tight sleek shape to create a hairstyle that reflects the element of cruel. I like how this hair style shows the different colours throughout my models hair and adds an extra dimension to the style. I also like how I used a lot of volume to create a large french pleat, I think the volume adds to the elements and reflects authority. However i think i could improve this by making the shape sleeker and tighter around the neck line to create a nicer silhouette. I could also look at add in some more detail with a more defined curl added to the top of the pleat or the side of the head.
Decaying:
I love this design and its my favourite of the 3. The bed head curls loosely gathered back into a soft french pleat all add to the feeling that we are looking at something that was once very put together and beautiful and over time has aged and wilted and been taken over by gravity. The added accessories of dead roses and fallen petals only add another dimension to the hair style and really complete it. However i now need to work on reflecting this in a more Victorian hairstyle, that would be more suited to Miss Havisham, i could still use the idea of the french pleat i would just need to add volume to the top and sides to show the height reflected by the women of the Victorian era.
Romantic:
For this style i really like the soft pieces of hair that are loose and let to fall around the face to shape it, i also like the added detail of a section of hair twisted and clipped back into the loose french pleat. However to improve and add a more Victorian feel i would need to add some more structure to the style but still with the softness of the details i have added here.
I had to decide on what sort of colour I wanted to use on the lips for both Miss Havisham and Estella, i decided to go for an orange tone, a red tone and a pink nude tone. Although i really liked the orange and red tones feel they wont suit my natural, period piece and they may be a little to contemporary and therefore it wouldn't suite the brief of creating a period piece.
Therefore i think i will use a nude toned colour on the lips of both my Miss Havisham and Estella although i may have a slightly more brown toned nude for Miss Havisham and a peachy pink tone for Estella.
After discussing the 3 main characters Pip, Miss Havisham and Estella within class, collectively we picked some key words in which related to each character. After doing this we had to find 3 hairstyles that we thought related to these words to aid us in the process of creating ideas for our characters.
Estella's keywords: Cold/ Cruel:
When i think of the words cold/ cruel in terms of hair i imagine sleek, poker straight hair, with each piece precisely positioned. I also imagine mostly up do's like the one you can see in the image above. However an updo like the one above wouldn't be suited to a hair style designed for a period estella, although this will be part of my inspiration in creating Estella's hair design, i imagine a classic victorian updo ensuring i create a lot of height, but with everything neatly placed and secured.
Pip's keywords: Romantic/ Passionate:
When i think of the words passionate/ romantic i envision loosely secured updo with curls tumbling out and let loose around the face, the whole hair do should be soft, much like the image above. For the creation of Miss Havisham and Estella i must decided whether or not i want to reflect a hint of a feminine romantic twist on their hair, more so for Mrs Havisham if i choose to create her closer to her wedding day, rather than further on in her life.
Miss Havisham's keywords: Decaying/ Eccentric
Firstly when i imagine the work eccentric i envision a hair style that is over the top and demands attention from anyone who comes across it, whether this be down to the colour, the cut or the style it had been secured into. I imagine for Miss Havisham that she could have a very grand and slightly eccentric style for her wedding day to ensure everyone knows that its her day. The word decaying makes me think of a hair style that was once as it should be, but over time has now loosened, fallen and matted. This would add texture and volume, 2 more keywords that need to be considered when deciding on a decaying hair style for Mrs Havisham.
All images are screenshots from my pinterest page and can be found here: http://www.pinterest.com/ayeshaneve/
Great Expectations was originally set in the Victorian era, during which life was extremely different to how it is now in the 21st century.
The life of those who were poor left little to be desired for anybody. The living conditions in which they lived were destitute and often lead to many infections and often or not death as the health care was minimum. Although those who were of a higher class also died around the age of 40 or so and that in itself was considered an achievement. Living in the Victorian age you would be faced with many diseases that weren't curable by the antibiotics or such things. People would die of the common cold and sewage laced the streets covering any clothing in it. Diseases:
Cholera: caused by contaminated water, it causes the circulation to slow down in the body and eventually it will lead to death, in the victorian age people even stopped eating fruit and veg in a hope to dodge the disease.
Diphtheria: This is something that was highly contagious and caused a mucus in the throat which made breathing a difficulty, and again often lead to death
Consumption otherwise known as tuberculosis which is caused by bacteria that begins to attach to all organs and shut them down, its was found that only direct sunlight would help with this, but more often than not ended in death and was the common cause.
This era was also known for the gothic architecture, an industrial revolution and many expressive novels just like Great Expectations.
When considering this for my characters i need to create i should consider that the skin may be dull, and pale. It could have a blue or yellow discolouration to the skin to show that they may have a disease, also i could include things such as boils, or sores that may be caused by scratching of bites from flies and rats due to the extremely low standards of hygiene in which surrounded them.
In this modern day adaption of the classic Charles Dickens novel 'Great Expectations' we see Helena Bonham Carter playing 'Miss Havisham', with Jeremy Irvine as 'Pip' and 'Holliday Grainger' as 'Estella'.
When i watched this film first thing that struck me was costumes as a whole including hair and makeup. It all looked brilliant it really had me hooked and observing each and every detail, down to the spot of dust on Havishams' face.
We see the film portraying period characters however with contemporary twists and this is really interesting to look at how other people portray the characters now in the modern day based up on how Dickens created them within his novel.
This film followed the storyline, being left on the wedding day and all clocks stopped, we then go through the upbringing of Estella and Pip who comes to play with Estella, as they grow we see Pip sent to London to be a gentleman and Estella left in their home village to continue her work, and break mens hearts the way Havisham brought her up. We see Pip visit Havisham and eventually be told never to return. There are many different endings to great expectations and in this adaption we see Estella and Pip finally meet again as the friends they always were.
After watching this modern day adaption it really inspired me to get thinking about ideas and it led to me playing around with makeup and hair ideas for my Havisham piece. However in this film we see a very theatrical hair and makeup used throughout and for my Miss Havisham i have decided i want to create something a little less theatrical and a little more realistic to what i thought she may actually look like.
